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Assembly & Installation

Assembly of the School System
Installing A Tank Window
Installing A Growbed
Pod Assembly

Assembly of the School System (1 - 30):

Read the entire paragraph thoroughly before beginning the assembly required for each number.

1. Position the tank(s) in the desired location. Slide Styrofoam insulation board or other padding underneath the tank(s) for insulation. You may want to cut away the excess padding from around the base; however, you will need to wait until assembly is complete and the tank(s) is/are filled to do so.

2. When positioning the tank(s), keep observers in mind, especially if installing a window. Tighten the bulkhead fittings. You may want to use silicone between the two parts of each bulkhead fitting to insure a water tight seal.

3. When positioning the Filtration Unit, keep the drain in mind. The plumbing from the drain outlet can be elbowed over or go straight to the drain. If the unit consists of a clarifier, the outlet closest to the ground is the drain. If the unit consists of a Clarifier and a Bio-Filter, the larger side is the clarifier and will have a screen. The smaller side is the Bio-Filter and will have Bio-Media. The drain outlet is on the Clarifier side. Position the Filtration Unit next to the tank, or in-between the tanks, so that the angled tank outlet is on the same side as the drain outlet on the Clarifier. There should be about 4" to 6" of space between he side of the filtration unit and the side of the tank.

4. Find the Air Blower and the Air Filter(s). The Air Blower should be placed squarely on Styrofoam insulation board or foam padding and fastened down tightly. The Air Blower must be higher than the water level. It needs to be sitting squarely and must be stable. Place it in an area with adequate ventilation. Position the Air Blower in relation to the system. (An Air Manifold will be attached to the Air Blower. The Manifold must be close enough to the system to allow for vinyl tubing to attach to the manifold and then reach each of the different system components.) Attach the Air filter(s). Depending on the size of the model, either screw the filter(s) in or loosen the screw on the flex coupling attached to the filter(s) and, using Vaseline, slide the flex coupling over the inlet hole of the Air Blower and tighten the screw.

5. Find the Air Manifold which consists of up to 3 sections. Line up the sections in order (i.e. Part #1, then Part #2, then Part #3) with the air outlets on the same side. Using pipe glue, apply adhesive to the outside of the pipe on Part 1 and to the inside of the coupling on Part 2. Slide the pipe into the coupling. Keep all the outlet holes in alignment on the same side. Do the same in-between Part 2 and Part 3.

6. Find Bag #1 for the Barbs. Screw a barb into each of the air outlets in the Air Manifold. Loosen the screw on the flex coupling of the Manifold. Using Vaseline, slide the flex coupling over the outlet hole of the Air Blower and tighten the screw. Support the Manifold, either place support beneath it or hang chain from the ceiling to hold it up. You may want to support the Air Manifold before attaching it to the Air Blower.

7. If Installing a Window, do so now.

8. Assemble the Plumbing, Parts #1 through #17. Read the entire paragraph for the number before attempting the assembly. You may use PVC pipe glue for a permanent bond or 100% Silicone rubber sealant for a temporary seal. Using Silicone allows you to disassemble the plumbing for cleaning. If the system has two tanks, you may complete the steps in order one tank at a time, or complete the steps in order at the same time for both tanks.

9. Find Part #1. Apply silicone to the threads of the male adapter, all the way around at the beginning of the threads. Screw it tightly into the outer side of the bulkhead fitting in the flat tank outlet.

10. Find Part #2. Apply silicone to the outside of the last two inches of the shorter pipe and on the inside of the coupling in the Bio-Filter hole. Keeping the gate valve upright, push the pipe firmly into the coupling.

11. Find Part #3A and Part #3B. Loosen the outer screw on the flex coupling of Part #3A. Using Vaseline, slip the flex coupling over the pipe of Part #3B. Don't tighten the screw yet.

12. Apply silicone to the inside of both of the ells on Part #3 and also to the outside of the last two inches of pipe on both Part #1 and Part #2. Firmly push the ells onto the pipes at the same time. Tighten the screw on the flex coupling.

13. Find Part #4A and Part #4B. There is no need to silicone either of these pieces. Place Part #4B onto Part #4A, this should be a gentle fit. Place the pipe of Part #4 into the inner side of the coupling inside the clarifier. The opening of the ell should face up.

14. Find Part #5. Apply silicone to the threads of the male adapter, all the way around at the beginning of the threads. Screw it tightly into the outer side of the bulkhead fitting in the angled tank hole.

15. Find Part #6A and Part #6B. Loosen the outer screw on the flex coupling of Part #6B. Using Vaseline, slip the flex coupling over the pipe of Part #6A. Don't tighten the screw yet.

16. Find Part #7. Apply silicone to the pipe of Part #6 and also to the inside of the tee on Part #7. Keeping the ell facing the same direction as the pipe in the tee of Part #7, push the pipe into the tee.

17. Apply silicone to the pipe of Part #7 on the tee side, to the pipe of Part #5, to the inside of the ell of Part #6, and to the inside of the clarifier coupling. Push the pipe of Part #7 into the coupling and the ell of Part #6 onto the pipe. Tighten the screw on the flex coupling of Part #6.

18. Find Part #8. Apply silicone to the threads of the male adapter, all the way around at the beginning of the threads. Screw it tightly into the inner side of the bulkhead fitting in the angled tank hole.

19. Find Part #9. Loosen the screw on the flex coupling. Using Vaseline, slip the flex coupling over the pipe of Part #8. Keep Part #9 angled down toward the center of the tank and tighten the screw.

20. Find Part #10. This is the center drain. There is no need to silicone this part. Place the base squarely at the bottom and in the center of the tank. Push the side ell onto the pipe of Part #9.

21. Find Part #11 and Part #12. You do not need to silicone either of these. Gently place #11 into the top ell of Part #10. Gently place #12 into the coupling of Part #10, the notch should fit comfortably over the inner ell.

22. Find Part #13. Set this piece aside. Use Part #13 to replace both #11 and #12 when stocking fry. It should be placed into the top ell of Part #10. When the fish reach 3 or 4 inches long, replace #13 with both #11 and #12. To insure the safety of the fish, close the gate valves when switching back and forth.

23. Find Part #14. Apply silicone to the threads of the male adapter, all the way around at the beginning of the threads. Screw it tightly into the inner side of the bulkhead fitting in the flat tank hole.

24. Find Part #15 and the Vinyl Tubing. This is the Airlift. Take two barbs from Bag #1 and screw them into the outlet holes at the base of the Airlift. Cut two ample pieces of vinyl tubing that will adequately reach from the base of the tank at part #14 to the Air Manifold. Slide the tubing over each of the Airlift barbs. Place the shorter pipe of Part #15 firmly into the male adapter of Part #14, there is no need to silicone. The airlift should curve up to be vertical and should be parallel to the side of the tank.

25. Find Part #16 and Part #17. Place the hole of Part #16, the Stabilizer, over the Airlift pipe of Part #15 and place the pipe arms over the edge of the tank. This should be a snug fit. Place Part #17 on the pipe of Part #15 and turn the opening to flow clockwise.

26. Find the Bio-media crate. Cut 3 ample pieces of vinyl tubing that will adequately reach from the bottom of the Bio-Filter to the Air Manifold. Slide the tubing over each of the connectors at the top of the crate. Place the crate inside of the Bio-Filter with the Airstones at the bottom and the weight on top. Keep the tubing loose and free from kinks.

27. Find the Directional Aerator/Bio-filters. Cut two ample pieces of vinyl tubing that will adequately reach from the bottom of the far side of the tank to the Air Manifold. Slide the tubing over the tee barbs at the base of the Aerators. Place both Aerators inside of the tank, with the pipe arms up over the edge of the tank. The Aerators should be at an angle and should be tight and secure against the side of the tank. Situate them so they and the Airlift are symetrically placed around the tank edge.

28. Find Bag #2 for the the Clamps and the small piece of vinyl tubing. Slide a clamp onto the small piece of vinyl tubing. Slide the tubing over the Air Manifold barb that is farthest away from the Air Blower. This should be used to release pressure. Slide a clamp over the end of each of the pieces of vinyl tubing now coming from the system. Slide the tubing over the manifold barbs, keeping each group of tubes together: two Airlift tubes, three Bio-Filter tubes, and two Aerator tubes. Keep all tubing loose and free from kinks. Keep the clamps open.

29. Once the silicone is dry(which takes a minimum of 24 hours), fill the tank, clarifier, and bio-filter with water. The Drain which is gate valve C, should be closed and the other two, gate valves A and B, should be open. Once filled, plug in the Air Blower. Place the heater in the water on the edge of the tank or on the edge of Part #12 and then turn it on.

30. If Installing a Growbed, do so now.

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Installing A Tank Window (1 - 16):

1. The tank must be empty to install a Window. Read each step completely before attempting the step. You will need to have 32 bolts, 32 nuts, and 64 washers. They need to be 5/16" and stainless steel. You will need 100% Silicone rubber sealant, a jig saw, a drill, a 3/8" drill bit, and a rachet or wrench.

2. Find the pre-drilled Window piece. Do NOT remove the paper covering until it is specified to do so. Pick the place for the window. Keep observers in mind.

3. On the inside of the tank, measure down from the top of the tank to the center place desired. Measure down the same distance on both sides of the center. Press the window against the side of the tank at the desired place, the window should be bending slightly. Draw around the window.

4. Measure in 1 1/2" from each line and draw a second rectangle on the inside of the first one. Using a short piece of 3 inch pipe or some other round object to trace, round off the four corners of the inner rectangle.

5. From the inside of the tank, use a jigsaw and cut out the rounded off inside rectangle. When finished, inspect the edges and remove any excess plastic. This cut must be clean and smooth to insure a watertight seal.

6. Press the window against the tank and line it up with the outer rectangle. Drill a hole in the tank through the pre-drilled top center hole of the window. Place a bolt through both the window and the tank and screw on a nut, only finger tight. Drill a hole in the tank through the pre-drilled hole next to the top center hole. Put in a bolt and screw on a nut.

7. Drill holes through the tank in the two bottom center window holes, put in bolts, and screw on the nuts. Now drill all the other holes in the tank through the pre-drilled window holes. There is no need to put bolts in any of the other holes.

8. When the drilling is finished, remove the four bolts and the window. Inspect each hole and remove any excess plastic. Re-drill if necessary. These holes must be clean and smooth to insure a watertight seal.

9. Remove the paper covering on both sides of the window. The next steps are easier if two or more people are involved. Once the silicone is applied, the steps must be done rapidly.

10. On the inside of the tank, apply silicone: along the inside of the outer line of the rectangle, along the inner edge of the inner line of the rectangle, in between each of the holes, and extra on each of the corners. Gently place the window onto the tank side, keep the window inside the lines of the outer rectangle. Do the next step quickly.

11. QUICKLY place a washer on a bolt and place the bolt through the top center hole. Place a washer on the bolt on the outside of the tank and screw on a nut, finger tight. Place a washer on a bolt and put it through the bottom center hole. Place a washer on the bolt on the outside side of the tank and screw on a nut, finger tight. Repeat this with all the holes now. Do the next step quickly.

12. Using tools on both sides, quickly tighten each bolt. Tighten until the silicone seal is clear all the way around the window. Do not over tighten. But it is normal for some excess silicone to spill out onto the tank and window. Do not attempt to remove it now because it will smear. This excess can be easily removed after 24 hours of drying.

13. On the inside of the tank apply a blob of silicone on each bolt head, also covering the washer and smoothing the top and edges. Use your finger to smooth it out if necessary. Apply silicone in the edge between the window and the tank. Make sure the silicone is sealing the space closed.

14. If desired, cut off the excess bolt that is sticking out on the outside of the tank. Apply a blob of silicone on each bolt end, also covering the washer and smoothing the top and edges.

15. Allow the silicone to dry a minimum of 24 hours.

16. If desired, remove the excess silicone on the outer side of the tank by cutting it off at the tank-to-window edge with a razor. Any excess that spilled onto the window face can be peeled off.

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Installing A Growbed (1 - 10):

1. A Growbed needs a frame, stands, and a liner. You may build or buy the frame and stands.

2. To make your own simple Growbed frame out of wood you will need two 4' x 8' sheets of plywood and 24 feet of 2" x 6" wood. Place the two sheets of plywood together and mount the 2" x 6" wood on their 2" side around the perimeter of the plywood. You may want to make your Growbed smaller depending on the available space.

3. Using a hole saw, cut a hole for a 2" pipe to have a slightly loose fit. Place the hole 3" - 4" from the edge of the end and centered.

4. You will need clamps to secure the liner in place. You may buy them or make them out of 3" pipe. You may need as many as 60 clamps depending on the size of your growbed. To make the clamps, cut 3" pipe into 1" long pieces. Then cut out a 1 1/4" section out of the circumference of each. You may want to sand or grind down the edges to make them smooth.

5. Place the PVC liner into the growbed as evenly as possible. You can cut it down to fit if needed. Tuck down the corners, fold, and secure the liner in place with the clamps. Place clamps all the way around the growbed to insure the liner won't move.

6. Cut a hole in the liner where the hole in the frame was cut. Find the drain. To bond it in place you can use silicone, vinyl cement, or tape. The pipe should point down through the bottom of the frame. Bond the drain into place.

7. You will need two stands. One should be slightly higher than the other. We have found it best to be no more than 2" per 10' in difference. The shorter stand should be the height of the culture tank. Place the frame on the stands so that the end with the drain hole is on the shorter stand. Place the drain hole pipe over the edge of the tank so the outlet can empty directly into the tank.

8. For a 4' x 16' growbed, you will need a small submersible pump with a 500 - 600 gallon per hour capacity. For a 3' x 6' growbed you will need a pump with a 150 - 160 GPH capacity. Your pump will need a screen over the inlet. Use vinyl tubing to go from the pump to the higher end of the Growbed. Hold the tubing in place with clamps. Place the pump in the culture tank and fasten it securely just under the water.

9. Choose your growing medium. You may want to use coarse perlite, rockwool cubes, or a capillary mat. If you choose perlite, you may want to plant directly in the medium or place potted plants in it. Rockwool cubes are perfect for planting seeds. If using a capillary mat, all plants need to be in pots. The pots should be rotated daily to discourage root growth in the lower medium.

10. All plants need adequate lighting. Either direct sunlight through a greenhouse or from grow lights. If using grow lights, use 400 - 1000 watt metal halide lights.

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AquaRanch Industries, LLC
404 D. East Lincoln St.; P.O. Box 658; Flanagan, IL 61740
phone: (815)796-2978, alt. ph: (309)208-5230, fax: (815)796-4485
email:  info@aquaranch.com, website: www.aquaranch.com

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